When I first started making watch straps I always made them with a single 15mm wide loose (or “floating”) keeper. This is what I prefer, and from the feedback I got this seemed to be what most people wanted. Over the years the wide floating keeper has become something of a trademark of a Toshi Strap, and still to this day this is what most of my customers ask for when they indicate a preference. It is part of the “standard” strap configuration with my straps (which is why all the straps photographed for the store pages show a single wide floating keeper only), but it is not the only option I offer.
I am frequently asked whether it is better to have a single floating keeper on a watch strap, or have a keeper that is sewn into the strap (and therefore fixed in position) too. In fact I get asked this question so often that this morning I decided to write this short post to give you my thoughts on the subject, and I’ve photographed a 24mm wide strap with a sewn in keeper (if you’re wondering, it’s made from African Kudu leather) that I’ve just finished to help illustrate the subject.
As you can see in the photograph below, unlike the straps photographed for the store pages (which have just one wider keeper) this strap has two narrower keepers, and the keeper closest to the buckle has been trapped inside the two layers of leather that make the strap. The second keeper is loose, and so can be positioned anywhere on the buckle half of the strap that is best, but the sewn in keeper can’t move and is held in position by the strap itself.
When deciding whether to request a sewn in keeper with your next strap, the first thing to consider is the style of straps that I make. Because I make watch straps mainly for medium to large watches, when sourcing leather I tend to look for something that has some bulk to it and as a result most of the straps I make are between 3mm and 5mm thick. This strap thickness just seems to work so much better with a large watch in my opinion, but the keeper really has to be quite substantial to look in proportion with a strap of this thickness. I’ve found that 15mm wide seems to be the sweet spot.
Regardless of whether you like a long tail on your strap or not, being able to move the position of the keeper to where it feels most comfortable is definitely important. For this reason I would always suggest a floating keeper is a must, but should you opt for a second sewn in keeper too? It might seem silly not to, after all it doesn’t cost any more for the extra keeper, but is there a practical reason why two keepers are better than one?
Actually, I hate to break this to you, but there probably isn’t. Because the single keepers I make are 15mm wide I’ve found that not only do they look “right” on my straps, but they hold position on the strap perfectly when worn too. A narrow keeper may move around a little on a thin strap, but with my straps the extra width of the keeper means it will stay planted where you put it. If anything, a single wide keeper can be something of an advantage, because bending the strap tail to feed it through a fixed keeper close to the buckle can be tricky with a thicker leather, or a leather that isn’t yet broken in.
That’s not to say that you shouldn’t opt for a sewn in keeper though, but I really think it’s more a question of aesthetics than practicalities. Some people just prefer the look of a watch strap with two keepers, and I have to admit that with a wider strap, having both a fixed keeper and a floating keeper does look pretty good. But if there are going to be two keepers, then having them both 15mm wide is too much. For this reason, when I make a strap with a fixed keeper I will always reduce the keeper width to 9mm and mimic this with the floating keeper too (so you have two 9mm wide keepers). I think this works so much better with a wide strap than a narrow one though, so my advice is only consider a fixed keeper if the strap width is 22mm or more.
If you’re currently trying to decide whether you should have a fixed keeper when you order your next strap, I realise this blog post probably hasn’t helped you all that much, but I hope it’s re-assured you that there is no right or wrong answer to this question. The best advice I can give you is to go with your gut instinct, and if you really want your next strap to have a sewn in keeper then just make sure to tell me when you order and I’ll be happy to make it that way for you.
Please note that when you order a strap, unless you state a preference at the time you order your strap will be built with one 15mm wide floating keeper only. I am happy to make your strap how you want it, and so if you want a sewn in keeper I’ll make it that way for you with pleasure, but please remember to tell me. You can either put a comment in the “order notes” section when you get to the checkout page, or simply send an email. Either way, when I email you to confirm your order please check that I’ve seen your request (and let me know if you think I’ve missed it). Thanks.