I’ve just returned from my annual road trip in search of new and interesting leathers, and this deep blue hide was one of my favourite finds. It’s a beautiful example of Italian vegetable tanned leather, produced by a small tannery near Florence in the heart of Tuscany. I’ve used leather from this tannery before and always liked the results, so I didn’t hesitate to bring more home. They also offered a black version, but it was very close to Raven in structure and thickness, so I passed. The blue, though, adds something special.
What makes this leather stand out is the treatment it receives after tanning. The tannery starts with a traditional vegetable‑tanning liquor, a slow process that takes several months. Once the hide is fully tanned and stable, it’s dyed to its final colour. After that, it moves into the fatliquoring stage. Warm, water‑soluble oils coat the collagen fibres so the fibres can move smoothly instead of sticking together.
When fatliquoring is complete, the leather needs to be dried and conditioned. Most leathers are simply dried at this point, but this one goes through an extra step. When the moisture level reaches around 18–25%, the tannery tumbles it. Picture a huge industrial drum, like an oversized clothes dryer, with the hides inside. As the drum turns, the leather softens through gentle mechanical action. At the same time, tumbling evens out moisture and distributes the oils. The result is a soft, pliable leather that still holds its strength. Tumbling also brings out the natural grain pattern, adding even more character and producing a stunning leather.
The result is Sapphire vegetable tanned leather: strong, soft, beautifully pliable, and rich in colour. It makes a gorgeous watch strap, and it’s available to order now through my web store. I think you’ll enjoy it.