Over the next month or so I will be releasing several new leathers that I found on a recent trip around the UK. The first of these new leathers is ready now, and is one I am very, very excited about. I’ve called it “Russian Tan“, and I’ve been wearing it on my 24 for the last 3 weeks to test it out. I’m delighted with it, and I think you will be too. If you want a classic tan leather watch strap with an antiqued look, then this is perfect.
Russian Tan is a veg tanned deer skin produced by a small independent tannery using traditional techniques. It is soft yet strong, and has a wonderful reddish tan colour traditional with antique Russia leather. I’ll let the photos do the talking, but for anyone interested in the history of Russia leather, there is a brief overview below.
The Enduring Legacy of Russia Leather: A Fragrant Tale of Craftsmanship
In the world of fine leather, few materials have a legacy as rich and mysterious as Russia leather. Known for its distinctive aroma, remarkable durability, and water resistance, this legendary leather once traveled the Silk Road, outfitted European aristocracy, and lined the trunks of elite travelers. Legend tells the story of a Cossack whose boots rubbed against the bark of native birch trees as he rode in the steppes of Eastern Europe, incidentally waterproofing them. But what exactly is Russia leather, and why does it still intrigue artisans and historians centuries after its prime?
Origins in the Russian Forests
Russia leather (also called “Russian leather”) traces its origins to Imperial Russia, flourishing from the 17th through the early 19th century. It was traditionally made from the hides of young calves or deer, sourced from the vast Russian countryside. What set this leather apart, however, was not just the animal hides—but the unique finishing process developed by Russian craftsmen.
The key ingredient? Birch oil—specifically oil extracted from the bark of the Betula alba (white birch). After tanning the hides with willow or oak bark, artisans would “stuff” the leather with birch tar oil, imbuing it with an earthy, smoky aroma that served more than a cosmetic purpose. This oil made the leather remarkably water-resistant, resistant to rot and insects, and gave it a flexibility and suppleness that made it prized across Europe. At the end of the tanning process, Russia leather was rolled with with a heavy grooved brass roller to give a decorative cross-hatched effect.
A Scent That Traveled the World
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Russia leather was widely exported to Western Europe by the Muscovoy Company, a British trading company that had a manopoly on trade between England and Russia, where it was used for luxury shoes, book bindings, saddles, and luggage. The scent of the leather became instantly recognizable and synonomous with quality. By the late 1700s, it was considered a premium material, found in everything from officers’ boots to gentlemen’s wallets. Its durability and resistance to mildew made it especially valued for maritime use, and it often lined sea chests and trunks.
The Decline—and a Remarkable Rediscovery
The rise of industrial tanning in the 19th century, along with political upheaval in Russia, led to the slow decline of traditional Russia leather production. By the early 20th century, the secrets of its exact manufacture—closely guarded and often passed orally through generations—began to vanish. Today, Russia leather is a symbol of lost craftsmanship, a material that embodied the harmony of natural resources, skilled labor, and practical luxury. It stands as a tribute to a bygone era when materials were meant to last generations—and often did.
